Club-S12 Username: Keith
I bought my 2 MSD Blaster SS Coils from Summit Racing for $35.00 each. Summit also does free grounds shipping, or for an additional $9.00 they will ship it 2nd day air. Either way, it’s a pretty good price for 2 performance coils. If you want info on the Blaster SS check out the MSD Website.
As far as the install goes, it was pretty straightforward.
Materials Needed:
- 2 Blaster SS Coils
- Hook Bracket
- Drill and assorted bits
- 4 pieces of 14 gauge wire 10" long (2 red, 2 black)
- common hand tools (screwdrivers, files, wrenches/sockets, etc...)
- Heat Shrink/liquid electrical tape
- male connectors
- Crimper/wire stripper
- As far as the install goes, it was pretty straightforward.
First thing you want to do is disconnect the battery by first removing the negative cable, then the positive cable.
- Next, you need to gain access to the 2 coils that are mounted down on the frame rail near the carbon canister. If you are still using the factory air box you might need to remove it to gain access.
- Now you need to unplug the plug connectors that connect to each coil leading from the power transistors. Once this is done you can unscrew the screws holding down the brackets for each coil, and remove them from the engine bay.
- Now it’s time to look for a place to mount the new Blaster SS Coils. Since I don’t use the factory air box, I decided to mount mine on the fender well. Also, note the single hole. This is where the bracket is mounted that the coils sit on. I decided to do this instead of drilling 6 holes to mount the coils directly.
The bracket I used I bought from Lowe’s for $2.49. It is called a “Hook Bracket”. The part number is 206104.
It is a little steel shelf with a 90-degree tab under it. It was painted brown when I bought it. I sanded it down and painted it flat black. The four bigger holes where already there when I bought it. The 6 smaller holes I drilled for the coils………3 for each coil.
- Next, mount the coils to the bracket. Then mount the bracket/coils together to the fender well.
- Next, it’s time to mount the transistors. I found that the easiest way to mount the transistors was to leave them mounted how the were already mounted. I just removed the O.E. coils from their brackets and left the transistors mounted to them.
- Now your ready to wire up the new coils. I used 14-gauge, color-coded wire from Ace Hardware. You need 2 for power (red), and 2 for ground (black), at about 10” long each. I decided not to cut the female plugs off from the transistors, but instead used male connectors from Ace that fit nice and tight into the plugs on the transistors. On the transistors, the blue wire is power, and the black wire is ground. I crimped and soldered the connectors to the wires, and used shrink tubing, and liquid electrical tape to seal out moisture. I also tucked the wires into wire loom for a nice clean install.
- To mount the wires to the coils, I did the same thing. I crimped and soldered the provided ring terminals, sealed them with shrink tubing and liquid electrical tape, and tucked them into the same wire loom. Then, just screw them down to the coil terminals.
- In the coil kit they provide a 90-degree boot for your existing coil wires. I had to use these because my Jacob’s Electronic boots were too big for the coil terminals.
- That’s pretty much it!!!!!! All you need to do is re-connect the battery in reverse order, positive first, then ground.
Re-hook up your cone filter, or in my case the piping for the cold air intake.
Once everything is hooked up it should look something like this..
- Crank it up and take it for a spin. I noticed right away that it cranked quicker and idled smoother. After driving with them for a few weeks now, I have noticed an improvement in gas mileage, crisper throttle response, and more power in the mid-range.