Having some swap wiring issues w/ '84 CA20, Could use a hand Options

[David B]

its fuzzy but here is the black and red wire,


so i link that black and red wire from the s13 harness,

directly to this black white wire off the coil, on the s12 chassis.



does primary or secondary count? this cord is from the one that sits across from the exuast manifold

This post has been edited by David B: Feb 13 2009, 05:13 AM

[David B]

RESPOND

[silvia love]

use the primary.

there are 6 wires you need to connect to get the ecu to work. those are not including the starter and alternator wiring which turn the engine over and charge the battery.

those 6 include...;....from s13 harness...
1.red-constant ecu power-memory
2.black/white-12v from s12 ecu relay when relay gets power...switched 12v
3.black/red-12v supplied by ignition(key)switch
4.brown-12v for sensors-fused power
5.black/yellow-12v for air reg.
6.orange-12v start signal, only gets power when key is on START position.


the 6 wires from s12 plugs under maf.......
1.black and white, not the coil blk/wht....constant power all times to ecu memory
2.lt. green/blk....12v out to s13 wire when relay is triggered
3.blk/wht at coil, turns computer on 12v ignition switch
4.brown 12v out
5.,black/red 12v power for air reg
6.black/yellow- start signal. sends out 12v when car is started.


just match 1 to 1, 3 to 3 and so on. you have the wires i seen them in your pics, they are the plugs under the maf. just splice directly to the s13 harness. we will work the feul pump later, just get the ecu power.

[David B]

thanks, thats exactly what im looking for. just what i need to see if it starts

[David B]

okay i found them all, and have them labled,


ECU wiring has 2 brown wires, s12 i only see one, can i just connect them together?

[David B]

BLACK AND YELLOW, on the S12 harness goes to WHICH orange wire? the one INSIDE the car? i have that hooked up to 12 volt power..

[David B]

OKAY, i wired everything up, but the black and yellow wire oin the s12 harness since no one answered my question




when i turn the key, the car turns over, and then every like 4 to 5 seconds theres a loud POP that comes from the exuast (no downpipe or cat)

hmmm, so, the S13 ecu orange wire (located INSIDE THE CAR), is connected to my 12 volt battery, do i also, bridge it with the BLaCK/YELLOW WIRE?

black yellow= #6 s12 on silvia loves list

[silvia love]

dont give the orange wire inside constant power.no no, its on suppose to recieve 12v when the key is on the start position for the brief time during starting. it just tells the computer to compensate for start-up. just connect the orange directly to the black/yell. the blk/yell sends power to/thru the orange.

the 2 brown wires are right next to each other on the s13 plug. the one that was on the outside of the plug is 12v for the sensors, which is the one that goes to the brown wire on the s12 plug. the inner brown one is for the power steering pressure switch, which when you turn it tells the engine to idle up so it doesnt kill the motor. thats optional. we can get into this later.

you did take the engine apart and put it back together right? sounds like your timing is messed. to far advanced i think, that or your firing order is wrong.

This post has been edited by silvia love: Feb 14 2009, 02:43 AM

[David B]

hmm okay, the s12 black yellow color hooked to the power turns the engine over lol


so, i disconnect the orange from the battery, and run it through the firewall, up into the engine bay all the way to where the old MAF and connect it to the black and yellow wire


i cut the plug, i dont remember where the brown wires which plug they go into




i never tore the engine down, the engine timing is correct, i had a friend double check. but the ignition timing could be off, im not exactly sure about that


im off to purchase a distributor cap and rotor, might as well there pretty cheap




so, if the BROWN wire is disconnected (for sensors)

WILL the car start, yes or no



so that loud pop, has to do with me having spark working, right?

[silvia love]

mine runs without the brown wire connected. im sure it has some ill-effect. i still need to sort that same issue on mine. give 12v to both, disconnect one at a time and see if the idle changes, when it does change thats the ps pressure switch.

im guessing that pop is the engine backfiring. id have to hear it to really tell ya. it could be the compression just relieving itself every rotation. take a plug out still connected to the plug wire, touch the spark end of the plug on metal and have someone turn it over and see if you are getting spark. is your pump wired up? all the engine needs to run is compression, fuel, air and spark. go over those things.

[David B]

yea the fuel pump is hard wired, i was told that my ignition is probally off timing, and ill get on that tomorrow.

also ill check for spark, but the car didnt pop UNTIL i wired it up, before when i cranked it never popped


its like, a REALLY loud pop, im damn sure im getting spark now regardless



at the moment right now i have the MAF taped to a elbow that comes out of the intake, is that alright? haha

[silvia love]

the maf has to be a min of 18 inches away from the throttle body. the tape should be a temp fix but dont keep it like that. when i did the engine swap on a focus, we didnt have the right intake assem, so we taped the old engines one on and it worked great for that day! haha

the engine shouldnt really pop that loud, i had open header and it popped but nothing crazy. well it should start if you got everything wired in now, try hitting it with a little starting fluid thru the brake booster vac line...... the fuel pumps wired up, so are you getting fuel to the engine?

oh and you dont need to hardwire the pump, i dont like that idea unless its a track only car. i figured out how to get it wired like it is in a s13. my pump comes on for about 5 seconds then turns itself off. just like it was suppose to. i however had to add a new relay for it to work like that. for some reason when i wired it like sterling did in his write up, my relay switched over as soon as i connected the batt. cables. not good. would've drained my batt. so there was no switched side, i think it was getting constant power. meh, it works so thats all that matters, with the computer being the ground controlled switch.

[David B]

hmm ell it mainly is a track car i dont mind the hard wired ness

[cs357sig]

i however had to add a new relay for it to work like that. for some reason when i wired it like sterling did in his write up, my relay switched over as soon as i connected the batt. cables. not good. would've drained my batt. so there was no switched side, i think it was getting constant power. meh, it works so thats all that matters, with the computer being the ground controlled switch.

I found that when I wired up my pump with a scavenged relay from the s13, that the diagram on the top of the relay didn't match the labels on the inside when the plugs for it were removed. That may have been your problem. Lesson being, check for continuity between wires coming out of the relay itself before hooking it up...just to be safe.

[silvia love]

I found that when I wired up my pump with a scavenged relay from the s13, that the diagram on the top of the relay didn't match the labels on the inside when the plugs for it were removed. That may have been your problem. Lesson being, check for continuity between wires coming out of the relay itself before hooking it up...just to be safe.

i know the diagram on the relay isnt matched to the wires. i had my wires numbered 1,2,3,5. knowing which pin was what and where it went. i meant that the wires sterling had must have been backwards or something cause at first it was hardwired even though i followed his s13 wiring set-up. the pump stayed on without the key in the car. id connect the batt, turn the key over, the pump would then turn on. id remove the key and it would stay on still. im gonna have to unwrap my harness to take a few pics how i got mine to work.
off the top of my head i think it goes like this....i'll verify this later.
i have power coming in on acc or start to pins 1,5 on the relay. pin 3 black.yellow wire goes to the ecu then the pump(black/red wire on my car)and pin 2 black/pink wire goes directly to the ecu.then i grounded the sheilded wire in the engine bay.

[cs357sig]

i know the diagram on the relay isnt matched to the wires. i had my wires numbered 1,2,3,5. knowing which pin was what and where it went. i meant that the wires sterling had must have been backwards or something cause at first it was hardwired even though i followed his s13 wiring set-up. the pump stayed on without the key in the car. id connect the batt, turn the key over, the pump would then turn on. id remove the key and it would stay on still. im gonna have to unwrap my harness to take a few pics how i got mine to work.
off the top of my head i think it goes like this....i'll verify this later.
i have power coming in on acc or start to pins 1,5 on the relay. pin 3 black.yellow wire goes to the ecu then the pump(black/red wire on my car)and pin 2 black/pink wire goes directly to the ecu.then i grounded the sheilded wire in the engine bay.

My bad, I didn't mean for that to sound like I thought you couldn't figure out a relay. It was more for everybody else's benefit to avoid disaster. The only reason I figured that out was because I had checked for the aforementioned continuity out of curiosity.
As far as the wiring went, I did wire my stuff up (ecu and fuel pump) per Sterling's write up word for word and it fired right up and ran like a champ.

[200sxkitcar]

if you used the old fuel pump writeup, there may have been problems. I edited it a few weeks ago.

all the wire colors and pictures are there, if you're not quite sure where the connectors are on the S13 harness, I can take a more zoomed-out pic, but it shouldn't be too hard to find. the S12 connectors are usu. white/light tan underneath the airbox where the CA20 engine harness used to connect to, so those shouldn't be too hard to find either...

ask more questions if you need to....