Zeus must've been autocrossing this thing before I bought it cause it's got way too much rear camber. Can I adjust that myself easily or am I better off going to an alignment shop and chequebooking it?

hehe he wasn't autocrossing it to get that camber man.

it's from the lowering. That negative rear camber plagues us all. You should've had a look at mine and Travis' car at golden gardens and in vancouver.

We dont' have adjustable camber, so no point taking it to an alignment shop. They'll set the toe, tell you you've got lots of negative camber, take your money and send you on your way w/o having fixed the problem.

2 words. subframe spacers. they raise the subframe off the car, and fix some of that neg. camber.

the best way to fix it is to slot the sub frame where the control arm mounts.

has anyone done a write-up on slotting the subframe or even the spacers? and can you remove all the negative by slotting? man the last owner of my car screwd up, i told him i would by it he said he had plans to lower it to help it sell, and i told him i liked it the way it was(i don't but i didn't want him doing anything that major to the car), but he heated the springs and slammed it anyways...................now i have crappy right performance and a ton of negative camber

yeah it will fix your -. havent seen a write up but if you want I can do one

Slotting the rear crossmember is not the best way to fix the negative camber in the rear. It does work, but it's far from the best way. Slotting the crossmember causes the control arm bushings to bind, giving you a lot of extra friction in the suspension and causing inconsistent handling. The best way is to modify the crossmember to something like the Penultimate rear crossmember for Datsun 510's. There is no easy way to fix the rear negative camber. As for the previous owner heating the springs - get rid of them. When you heat a spring, you ruin it's temper, and change it's properties. Get some SSC lowering springs.

haha. irs sucks huh! no camber issues with us solid axle people :-p

yeah i was planning to swap them with the ones all over ebay ................................................................................................................on another note: julie is that you on the avatar? ( if so, WOW) I KNOW THIS IS NOT A PERSONALS SITE, BUT I CAN'T RESIST GIVING A BEAUTIFUL GIRL A COMPLIMENT EVERY ONCE AND AWHILE.

I just threw up in my mouth a little bit. The next person to say how hot julie is should be banned. I can see her head inflating all the way down here in Florida.

haha, i think im getting it down here in texas too
i thought we were over leghumping

kinda new round here just getting my last hump or two in now so guys chillout

It's already been said once, but negative camber isn't your only problem. The previous owner heating the springs to drop the car has completely destroyed any chance you had for handling. That is one of the WORST things you can do to your car. Definately replace the springs with a quality aftermarket set at the first opportunity.

My springs weren't heated, they're lowering springs.. i just wanted to fix the camber because of how the rear wheels sit in the wheel well.. looks kinda off

honestly. mmr subframe spacers. or make your own.

[url]www.mmr-direct.com

they will fix your neg camber with no adverse effects. I have subframe spacers + slotted subframe and am litterally 2 fingers between the frame rail and the ground, with good rear camber. I'm sitting at just around -2 deg camber in the back. It was like -5.

I just figured he had because you said this:

yeah I misread that too. I guess its projectaholic with the heated springs, not the thread starter (Gyuji).

Ha! Reading comprehension owns me.

he only sells subframe bushings,. dun see any spacers there..
unless you did what it says so that it'll raise it a bit


as for slotting.. how did you slot the spacers?

you can install his subframe bushings as spacers and raise it up. accomplishes the same thing I did.

And I just slotted the outer control arm mounting hole down.

So if I'm following you guys correctly, subframe spacers will fix the camber but raise the car a bit? I guess a bit of rake wouldn't look too bad.. not as bad as the camber anyways heh

anyone try those NeoGen tires that are made for neg camber cars? you know these tires.

How exactly do the subframe spacers work??

If they "space" and position the subframe lower on the car, won't that just make the camber worse?? Or do they mount the subframe marginally closer to the unibody, reducing camber that way?

I THINK how they work is they make the subframe mount lower, therefore decreasing the angle that it sits at, effectively eliminating the negative camber.

I THINK

they raise the subframe off the car, putting the control arm closer to the stock angle, and therefore correct the camber. They don't really adjust height, your control arm stays in the same spot where the spring/wheel are, just moves the front of it.

Ok, let me straighten this out. The MMR subframe bushings will not fix excessive negitive camber, but they will reduce it. How much? Well that depends on the condition of the original subframe bushings and how much the car is lowered. There are two ways to install them. You get four pieces with the bushing kit. Two bushings with a thick lip and two with a thin lip. If you install them with the thick lip on top of the subframe then the subframe is held in its original position. If you install them with the thin lip on top then the subframe is moved up, closer to the floor pan. The higher the subframe is in relation to the axle center, the less negitive camber there is. The bushings can't compensate for a car that has severly sagging springs or has been lowered a lot, but they help.

here's how to slot the subframe as well:

[url]http://www.az-zbum.com/modification.adjustable.camber.shtml

I'm so confused by the descriptions right now..
The people that actually make them are I think saying the subframe is mounted closer to the chassis to correct for camber. Is raising the subframe off th ecar the same thing as mounting it closer to the chassis?

On another note, besides decreasing vibrations, what's the point of the spacers? Can solid mounts be used to move the subframe up slightly higher or is that just a stupid move?

Thanks

in my mind i guess i see them working as rear rca's, except they are for the subframe and not the control arm. but they both work in a simular way.

yeah, I guess I misworded that. I raised the subframe (in relation to the ground) but lowered it on the car. haha confusing terminology. But basically it moves the control arm into a more stock position by altering where the subframe sits.

any special tools involved? do i need something to push the bushing/spacers out and the new ones in?

what about those typical shim kits or adj bolt kits that install to the upper control arm of most vehicles that give 1-2+/-? do our cars not have upper control arms?

holy thread revival batman!!!!!!!

haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa rofl

really?

look at ur car before posting

google Z31 camber fix, but thats not the only way to do it. the first time i did it i moved the outer control arm mount down a lot. next time i'm gonna move both mounts. outer down and inner up and forward. forward to account for the positive toe that we also gain from lowering.

Here's my necrothread no sir..........

lol Z31 camber fix is for NOOB's

FYI if your car lower then 3"+ the Z31 will not fix your camber problems

my sub frame is slotted. but there was not enough material to slot to correct -4.5" of drop.

if you look at the slots on the outside
take a 1/2" washer of 1/8th" thickness.

whats in orange is added material plus the washer in grey



effectively now makeing your suspension in there rear more permanent.

I managed to remove a great deal of camber and have about -4 to 3.5.

thus creating large amount of toe in.

there isn't enough room to slot on the horizontal plane you intersect with the subframe it self.

inner leg of the control arm either has to be shortened or tube framing the control arms. this im still working on. at this point S13 conversion may appear far more simple, Not really.

lol this thread was started by my car's way previous owner

blarg! zombie thread

If you can't move the inner tab forward, move the outer tab outwards and down.

mod_mastaz wow you solved my predicament, i was looking at this all wrong. im just going to TUBE frame outer leg for Horizontal ADjustment (toe) and make a insert shackle to allow for Vertical adjustment similar to ladder link setup.

would this change the postion of your diff? and wouldnt that be bad for your driveshaft?

no it would not change the position of your diff. You are not modifying the position of subframe you are only changing certain mounting points of the control arm

so, so the subframe spacers and the slotting and i should be close enough on a 3" drop, around -1.5 is what i'm after in the rear, and 2-2.5 in the frnt.

shouldn't there be enough toe adjustment already available to compensate for most of the extra toe in?

if so, then this all seems within reach and do-able with little fuss. whats troubling me now is how to obtain the 3" drop in the rear.

also, i believe i read a myth that s13 camber plates will not slap right in to our front strut towers.. this seems odd, because apparently from what ive been reading, s13 coilovers with camber plates just slide right in. so it makes no sense that camber plates would not, since the s13 front suspension is a direct swap from the top down. am i missing something?

tryin to keep it rear camber but damn..so many considerations must be made when dealing with the s12.