This is meant to be printer-friendly, hence the size of the pics.

Please read thru all of it ....carefully and .....slowly before exploding with questions, thank you

I highly recommend that you print this out and look over it that way, so you can see the pics and read it all w/o scrolling all the time




S12 CONNECTORS-----




.......
NOTE:

^ In this picture, you can see the coil connections (the other one is in the background slightly, look for the connector) for which you can use as a power source for the large S13 BLACK/RED wire. This is like a 12 gauge wire on the S13, so this coil wire source on the S12 will be sufficient, as its also about 12 gauge and has the same circuit function on both cars (the S13 BLACK/RED is a direct feed from the ignition switch for the coil, just like this S12 BLACK/WHITE wire).

S13 CONNECTORS-----

In this pic, you can see the GREEN/ORANGE wire that is the neutral safety switch wire. Its on the seperate plugs tucked to the sides.



Other photos, for reference. Original CA20 harness is on the right/top side, Body harness is on the left/bottom side.



You can see a hint of the GREEN/ORANGE neutral safety wire at the lower right corner of this pic.

TO CONNECT UP YOUR FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT: NOTE THIS INFORMATION IS NOT ON THE DIAGRAM ABOVE.

First off, I need to explain how the fuel pump circuit functions. It is critical you understand this before modifying the system.



The fuel pump circuit is ground-side controlled. What this means is that power is supplied to the fuel pump, and either the computer-- or the fuel pump relay-- controls the ground, and therefore whether the pump runs or not.


So in the S12, when the key is turned to the ON position, 12V power is supplied through the fuse block back to the fuel pump through a BLACK/RED wire. On the ground side of the fuel pump, a black or white wire exists (depending on when your car was built, how stoned the guy was building the loom, the position of Neptune, who the fuck knows). This black wire or white wire runs through one of the connectors in the engine bay (PICTURE #1), back up to the computer, and then the computer grounds the wire as it sees fit, turning the pump on or off (or somewhere in between, actually).



The other wire that you see, the one that's located in the middle of the connector, is the shielding wire. When current flows through a wire, it creates a magnetic field, which can disturb the flow of electricity in other wires that are near it. So Nissan took bare metal (in this case, aluminum) and ran a stranded cover overtop the rubber insulation of the fuel pump wires.



When it gets to connectors, though, the metal covering has to split off, so they put it through an extra pin in the connector. This covering is normally grounded at one end, in the case of the S12, it is normally grounded through the CA20 EFI harness on the engine somewhere, which you just removed. So what I do is either splice in a wire to that black-with-red-dots wire in PICTURE #1 and connect the longer wire to ground, or just connect that original one directly to ground with a screw, its whatever you like.

end of lesson.

--------------------------------------

SO…

For the fuel pump control, there are several options.

IF you are using the stock pump,

1. You can directly hard-wire the pump to ground which means that it will run all the time when the key is on. Normally the pump is controlled by the ECU, either directly or through a relay, and will only run for a few seconds before and after startup. If you hardwire the pump direct, you will bypass this function. Benefits are simpler wiring; drawbacks are potential hazard in an accident (normally if the engine would stop running, then so will the fuel pump). That decision is yours to make.

There are several ways to hardwire the pump directly, you can choose to ground it out either somewhere near the rear of the car- by the pump, by the connector- or you can ground it out in the engine bay where the EFI connectors are at. Again, this is preference. As long as you are modifying the wires up front, I'd rather do it there, as its less work and less chance of a spark near the rear of the car if things came undone.

If you decide to ground the wire at the connector in the engine bay, you will need to ground the wire that is located on the outside corner of the connector. I have run into different situations as to what color this wire is, IN this picture it is represented by the WHITE wire in PICTURE #1. You simply ground this wire to a good, clean, secure ground.



If you decide to ground the wire in the rear of the car, you will need to look at the fuel pump connector. The wire you are after is located on the *OPPOSITE* end of the connector with the BLACK/RED wire. See picture.



Sometimes this wire is black, sometimes its white. It should match whichever color the wire is up front in the engine compartment as shown in PICTURE #1. Ground this wire, and then the pump will run all the time when the key is on.
...........

2. You can add in a relay control. Since the computer we are using here is an S13, you can take a look at the lower diagram.



^The lower diagram is the system that needs to be set up.




What can be done is this. Take the WHITE -or- BLACK wire,(... depending on which you have, in PICTURE #1 on the outside corner of the connector...,) that is going to serve as the one of the Switched leads. Connect the other switched side to a GROUND of your choice, however you want to do that.

For the Control side of the circuit, tap the constant 12V BLACK/WHITE wire in the S12 Connector in Pic#1 and connect it to one of the control side leads. Now take the other control side of your relay and connect it to the S13 BLACK/PINK wire.

JUST MAKE SURE that you do NOT send the solid 12V to the BLACK/PINK wire. This will damage the ECU. The BLACK/PINK wire MUST be connected to the control side of the relay ONLY.

-----------------------------

IF you are using an aftermarket fuel pump, like the high-flow Walbros, you're going to need to run a larger power supply wire than the factory one. Once that is done, you can connect in a relay in similar fashion, its just the setup of the wires that will be different.

You are adding the NEW RED wire. It could be blue, green, pink, whatever. I used RED for this example.



What is necessary here is changing the arrangement of the wires at the fuel pump connector. You will need to cut the WHITE wire (or BLACK wire depending on your setup) from the connector, because that is going to be the relay control circuit, and you don't want a full 12 volts going thru back to the computer as I mentioned before. That WHITE (or BLACK) wire, the section that is left connected to the actual pump CAGE/SENDING UNIT, needs to be connected to ground now, wherever you decide is a good clean place to ground to. The other section of the white wire, which goes to the front of the car and is now not connected to anything, is going to get connected to the relay and serve as the control side of the relay.





A closer shot,




NOW for the BLACK/RED wire, you are going to be extending the Connector end of your cut wire to the relay, where the relay when activated will provide 12V to the fuel pump itself.

THE OTHER END of the BLACK/RED wire, the chassis side of your cut, just needs to get capped off. Do this well otherwise you'll be blowing fuses, etc, if it shorts to ground, because that circuit will still be sending power thru that wire. I don't think you can just pull the fuse, as that same BLACK/RED wire also sends power to the ECU. You could use to power something else back there I suppose, but the OEM pump only pulled 2amps down that circuit, so it better be pretty light if you do add anything.


NOW for the OTHER end of the chassis white wire, up front in the connector in PICTURE #1, you will connect this to the S13 BLACK/PINK wire. Again, this is happening at the front of the car, in the engine bay.

I think, finally....

this is done.


I realize that this forum is nearly all male, and its possible that some of us may be colorblind to some extent, so if you have a hard time with any of these posts colorwise let me know and I'll make some adjustments for ya.

Any questions feel free to ask, but this is a rather complex string of information,

so I ask that you please,

read,

thru it carefully,

and slowly,

a few times,

before posting up a bunch of questions.



As always, if you are deeply confused, or just want to affirm everything, you can PM me or call me, whatever works best for you.

Thanks!

Corrected the error in the fuel pump wiring. see option 2 diagram for changes.

i'm guessing on the Tan S13 wiring connector from the ECU (3rd picture for the S13 wiring), Pin's 1 & 2 are the Tachometer Signal (yellow.red) and Coolant Temp Sensors (blue.black)?

thanks.

as far as I am aware, yes. I do not have confromation of this tho, so please verify and let me know! The rest of it is solid, I used it for wiring Henry's KA, but he had a separate temp sensor and the digi cluster was no good, so dunno about how that would work out. is yours digi or analog?

Ok, yeah. this wiring guide is straight forward. thanks.
my cluster is analog.

cool. please do post up if you get the gauges to work...

quick question.
Where are these S12 connectors located?
I see all the S13 connectors on the harness?

ehh..

'
what he said! im so ,losty on that. where IS picture numebr one s12 connecter located?

edit,


nevermind sterling said there under where the stock airbox is in another thread

its hiding right under your maf/airbox.

sterling i need you explain, what is up with the blue & white coil wire. i thought that the ecu handled the coil stuff. i printed this off and this is the only i dont get thanks

the ca20e coil gets power from that blue/white wire, which is thru the chassis harness. it only sends 12v when the key is on on/start.
the ka only needs power to the computer, which then splits it to various things. the coil for the ka's plugs directly to the engine harness, being powered when the computer gets powered. so the ka ecu powers the coil when the ecu itself gets turned on. when swapping to a ka we use the blue/white wire to power our computer, not coil.

i get it thanks

which one is primary coil, i have the one thats across from the exuast manifold hooked up to the ecu


not the one under the airbox right?

I don't know exactly what you are asking, but the S12 COIL POWER WIRE IS ONLY FOR 12V POWER FOR THE S13 ECU. IT IS NOT TO PROVIDE COIL AND SPARK FOR THE KA DISTRIBUTOR. just as long as we are clear. You need to use the S13 coil, which connects to the S13 harness.

Whichever BLACK/WHITE wire you choose to use, whether its the primary (intake) or secondary (exhaust) coil 12v power supply wire, doesn't matter as it is 12V constant power when the key is on, regardless. They are the same circuit. There is only one BLACK/WHITE wire there, it just has a splice with two ends, one at each s12 coil.

So basically you could use either one, whichever is more convenient.


---------------------------------

a correction for the above comments:

THE BLUE and BLUE/WHITE wires ARE S12 ECU CONTROL WIRES. They do not have any voltage going to them, or going out of them, when the CA20 ECU is removed. When you put a KA in, these wires become useless.

Edited for correction:

you have a black/yellow for the air reg. and then a black/yellow for the fuel pump. can you tell me what is up with this. thank you



EDIT: im just talking about the s13 harness, to clarify

Is this the same for ca18et cars?

it is not quite the same for the ca18et cars, I need to do a separate writeup for those, as the s12 connectors are different, but the setup is similar.


--------------------------
IN AN S13, the BLACK/YELLOW wire feeds BOTH the air regulator and the fuel pump, actually, they just 'T' the fuel pump wire and feed it to the air regulator. why this is done this way is beyond me, but thats how it is shown on the s13 diagrams.

I'm not quite sure where you grabbed that info from, hope this helps, ask more if necessary....

when you wired up arro's car, you just run the wires from the s13 harness, where the battier is, across to where the s12 harness is under the air box right? that it right? I'm thinking that you have to hook up relays for the efi and wire up a fuse block. now I'm thinking that i just i need to run the wires to the s12 harness and then the relay that are on the s12 harness will do all the work and the s12 fuse block. if i just splice the s13 harness into the s12 harness like you have stated i will be OK right?



ps: i im so lost in the sauce

you run the wires from the batt side where the S13 connectors end up across the bay to the airbox side where the stock S12 connectors are at. its like a 4foot jumper harness, basically.

other than a fuel pump relay if you so desire there are no additional relays that need to be added.




yea i made a jumper harness on my SOHC


just buy those multi color electrical tape from walmart, and just like tape white, to white, on each end,

so when you bunch the wires together, you can remember which one is which


unless you go buy multi colred wire... which is a pain

No prob. An alternative to what David said with the tape is to purchase 4-flat trailer wiring, which gives you four wires bundled together. I ran two sets of this on Arro's car, and put tape on one set to designate which was which.

BTW, four flat wire has white, green, brown, and yellow wires all grouped together:


Ususally 14 gauge or so.

I built his harness using the 4-flat wire with ends on it, and made everything plug&play so it could be modded easily.

Another Thing to add to this list. When the Yellow/Red wire DOESN'T work for your factory tach. splicing it in RIGHT after the coil on the KA24DE's on the Green/Black Wire. You oly have about 3 inches of wire. Splice it in there before it goes into a little black box, and that will be right as rain for your tach.
-J

where does the red w/ black stripe connect to on s12? there is no mention of it on the color chart. its the fifth picture down with the brown connector for the efi control.

for a mk1 s12, its not needed, as the chassis controls the EFI relay, not the computer.

That is a multi-purpose pic for other writeups (ie mk2->ka thread) hence extra labeling.

alright i got a few questions as im sorta a noob with wiring.

since the s12 and s13 have the plugs on different sides, couldnt you move the plugs from the DS to the pass side on the main harness?

it would eliminate the excess wiring by not having to route it from the pass side to the drivers side; and the wires that run to the relays on that side could be cut/ and wire could be resodered to make the harness longer to the relays

i know its alot of work but if you use the same gauge wire is there any harm in doing this?

also as stated deleting these plugs (from S13 to s12) and sodering the connections according the the diagram

i did read this is merely a suggestion so to make the harness look alot cleaner

what i did was run the s13 harness that you splice into uned the center console and ran them where the factory wiring passes through on the ds under dash area. i did this after i hatted th look of the sloppy jumper between the front rails..