Doug
Aug 4 2008, 08:46 PM
Car starts and runs, but idles really strange, im not sure what to think or where to start checking for issues but basically this is what happens:
Once started idles at 1500rpm for a few minutes then kicks down to 1000rpm. After a few minutes at 1000rpm with AFR of about 12-13 the car will start this weird cycle where it will lean right out and the idle will bog down (to about AFR 15 and idle at 5-600) for a few moments (maybe 5 seconds or less) then it will climb back up to 1000rpm and 12-13 AFR. I took the valve cover off and checked the timing chain but its spot on, good oil pressure, no strange sounds coming from the motor... I dont know what to think, anyone got any ideas? This car is starting to get on my nerves, im running out of weather to drive it and i havent even driven it, starting to think i should get a JWT ecu but i dont have that kind of money
seishuku
Aug 5 2008, 12:07 AM
Mine kinda does that too, though it sometimes just plain idles at 1200, but it'll sometimes idle at 850 like normal.
Never figured out why, but I thought it might be the load sense connection that idle ups the engine when the headlights or blower motor turns on, but it doesn't bother me much.
My AFR sweeps somewhat far as well, it'll be at 15 one minute and 13 the next.
Vacuum leak? Bad PCV?
Doug
Aug 5 2008, 08:11 PM
i was going to check for vacuum leak but i wasnt sure if its the same procedure as checking for a boost leak because vacuum won't blow bubbles i wouldnt think. What should my vacuum reading be at during idle?
Xano
Aug 6 2008, 04:31 AM
QUOTE(Doug @ Aug 5 2008, 03:11 PM)

i was going to check for vacuum leak but i wasnt sure if its the same procedure as checking for a boost leak because vacuum won't blow bubbles i wouldnt think. What should my vacuum reading be at during idle?
If you want to check for a vacuum leak, you buy a can of starting fluid. Take the can and methodically spray it onto each vacuum line, listening for an increase in engine RPMs. If your RPM's increase, your vacuum leak is more than likely right where you sprayed. Or at least very nearby.
seishuku
Aug 6 2008, 09:21 PM
Vacuum should be 18-20 inHg.
Doug
Aug 6 2008, 10:48 PM
ok im at about -10. Could this be due to valve cover T setup? i have the block line going into the righthand T and the left hand T then goes to the oil catch can (with breather :S) and then the catch can goes to the intake pipe after the MAF. Seeing as im at -10 that probably means vacuum leak correct? The car will idle nice for a few minutes after started but then the idle drops and bogs down. I dunno what else to check for an issue like this. Could it be timing related? ive been having troubles setting my timing because as soon as i remove the TPS to put the car in "timing mode" the car just stalls (probably because the AFC is there i assume).
seishuku
Aug 6 2008, 11:19 PM
If the catch can had a breather on it and the hose goes to the intake after the MAF, then that's quite a leak... It's not a vacuum leak, but it's a metered air leak. That's probably the problem right there.
-10 vacuum is a bit low, there might be a leak on one of the vacuum lines that are near the throttle body (lines that go to the intake plenum), or a failed gasket even. It's hard to tell, you'll just have to test.
Doug
Aug 7 2008, 08:43 PM
I'm going to block up the filter this weekend and see if that makes a difference, then ill check over all my vacuum lines around the throttle body to make sure its all good there. I know there was one line underneath the throttle body that i tried to block off (put a piece of hose on it then folded the hose over and clamped it with a cable tie). I'm also going to replace my spark plugs and see if they could be contributing to the problem as i remember them being pretty black from initial startup being too rich.
silverarrow27
Aug 12 2008, 12:51 AM
The smaller nipple above the throttle body from what I remember goes to your fpr, boost gauge, and or boost controller selenoid while the bigger nipple goes straight to your bov. Bottom one is capped off unless you're running a charcoal canister. Wastegate should be getting it's signal from the intercooler pipe. If not I've tested the bov line as well and it works just as well. Some people have even seen good results by holding boost more steady. I've tried it and it feels the same as getting the signal from the intercooler pipe.
Btw, -10 hg isn't too bad. It doesn't necessarily mean you have a bad vacuum leak. It depends what elevation you're at. Best thing to do is ask some local guys with turbocharged vehicles and see what their vacuum is at and go from there.
Otherwise, I'm not sure if you have pictures of your engine bay already up or not, but I'd like to see a picture of what you've done so we can see what may need to be looked at.
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