So i used a lift today and the car now has an ACT Extreme clutch set in it. Good for 330ft lbs.

If I can get this full throttle lean issue figured out I will be taking this thing to the track on friday night. Looking for 13.50's.

Which diff do you have? I forgot what your S12 was originally...

sweet! only 13.50's tho? this is after tuning right?

well, i couldnt get my lean issue sorted out in time so I didnt get to run it. Pretty bummed but I'll figure it out. I'm gonna try searching for some loose grounds and then swap ecu's. We shall see.

cool yeah find that problem and let us know

Any updates?

Well we've had some pretty nasty weather up here until recently, anyhow I've got a buddy that is supposed to be sending me a tuned ECU soon. Hoping that will help. I have a spare ecu that I'm gonna go swap right now, not counting on it though. Also thinking maybe its a TPS issue? Lemme try the ECU. . .

No dice.

Have you tried the MAFS right off the throttle body? That would tell you if it's still a leak of some kind.

Maybe run a blow-through MAFS while you're at it?
I donno, basic engine ops should be ok with a tuned ECU or SAFC and those injectors. It shouldn't lean out, unless something is already fudging the MAFS.

I'd say get back to basics on ur diag with it.
Ask urself
Whats modded
Whats stock
Whats tuned
Leaks?
Wiring?
etc etc

basics of how the ECU runs it. Whats talking to the ECU and are they speakin the right language. think like a KA lol

Just a quick update. . . the XSPower manifold is crap. I've been driving the car virtually every day for the past 8-9 months and i've pulled the manifold off twice to repair cracks in the runners.

This last time runners 3 and 4 cracked all the way around. I welded it and added supports on each runner. We'll see how it holds up.

Also wired in the nissan consult plug since I didnt get it with the engine harness I swapped. Hopefully I can plug it in soon and get the problem I've been having diagnosed.

good shit. wheres all the pictures at?

Its too bad your having problems with your XS Power mani. I guess the earlier ones without the supports underneath the runners were even more prone to cracking. I would imagine you have the supports as you did your project fairly recently and I have had my XS Power mani for awhile (at least 2-3 years. been on the shelf awhile haha.) and it has the supports underneath. Here is a pic of mine:



If that is the same mani you have (with those supports under the runners) I guess that sucks for me cause that is what I was going to run as well. Quite a few people however reported putting a decent amount of miles on their XS Power manis with the stock runner supports after a year or two and they were still holding up ok yet some guys have had the same issues your having. Jay (another cs12 member if you don't know him) was saying in a related thread you can cut the manifold between the runners to help prevent cracking as well. Apparently that is what some other guys are doing to help the problem. But for basically 150 bucks versus 800-1000 bucks for a high end mani it is hard to beat the price even if it only holds up a year or two.

And yeah I would have to agree with Lonelys12 about the pics. It would be nice for reference to see how yours cracked.

i have a xs power manifold.. id like to make it stronger before i use it

Yep mine has those supports as well. This time around I picked up 4 stainless bolts, cut them to correct sizes and then welded them as support rods from the flange to the topside of each runner. So far so good.

Like I said before, if i was doing it again I'd get the cheap ebay cast manifold. Any gain in power with the cheap tubular is, imo, negligible unless one of you is shooting for 400+whp(wouldnt be using a t2 flanged turbo anyways). Another good tip with this manifold: cut out the bottom holes so they are just open slots. This manifold is a beast to get on the studs with the factory brake master cylinder in place. One better would be to leave studs in the bottom holes (mani would just slide down onto them) and replace top studs with bolts. That way it just drops straight down.

You can see in the second pic where I welded all the way around the runners. They cracked full 360.

forget where but someone said to cut the flange between the runners. So like each runner has its own flange not connected to the others. Hacksaw would do the trick. Honestly havent had any problems with mine.

I did. It's the band aid solution that 80% of the time prevents cracks. It allows the Thermal expansion coefficient some play room around the studs, instead of causing stress against itself (runners Vs plate)

Long story short, the plates width expands, where the pipe cannot bend that way. With cutting the between runners, it breaks it up and allows the seperate plates to expand on their own, with the runners keeping them in place.

Screwed around with the car last night. I've been running these wheels but the offset in the rear was killing me so I put on a pair of adaptors in the rear to bring em out flush.

Car is SO dirty!

6 pack tail lights on an mk2? Did you swap them over?

And thanks for posting the pics of your road warrior style xs power mani. I think I am gonna take Jay's advice and cut the plate between the runners before I install mine. I really like your s12 by the way. The rims match the car very nicely black on black.

The other problem with those type of manifold, is that the flange is usually steel, while the tubing is stainless. They expand and contract at different rates, which happens quite often, and causes it to crack.

Hey Garrett, do you by chance have a flex section on your exhaust? If it's solid all the way down, that's probably why it's cracking so much.

the front is mk1 also.

yeah i swapped over to mkI markers and tails, i really dislike the mkII stuff.

OK I have the car down in FL for 3 weeks. The manifold cracked again, this time a complete 360 around the #4 runner, right at the flange. Just took it off the car and ordered a ebay cast iron one. I think you can run them either top or bottom mount so I'm crossing my fingers. I really hate exhaust leaks so hopefully this will make it reliable.

Also I weighed the car the other day.I havent done anything to lighten the car other than eliminating the AC when I did the swap. 2665lbs with 1/4 tank.

full interior? what options? u deleted the ac as in removed the compressor but else did u remove? what about under dash hvac? where u weigh it? sorry bout questions.

Yep full interior, nothing removed from inside the car. My car is a base model, so manual windows/seats, analog, etc. I didnt remove anything from behind the dash. I removed everything A/C related from under the hood but I'm sure its negated by the addition of a turbo/IC. I weighed the car at the dragstrip in GA i was at a few weeks ago.

On a side note, the cast iron (revhard) mani wasnt gonna work with my turbo/downpipe setup without alot of modification. So I repaired the XSPower manifold (AGAIN!) and this time cut the flange between the runners. So far so good, we'll see.

Car was down for a couple of days because it kept blowing fuel pump fuses. Turns out the power wire to the pump was shorting out. So I've fixed that and will get back to my hesitation issue soon.

I also wired in a factory nissan consult plug(typically in the chassis harness not engine) the other day. So I purhased Nissan Datascan software so I can monitor all engine parameters realtime including timing, etc. So once that gets set up then I can hopefully get this thing going in full boost.

This car has come so far haha

I recall riding in it when it was on 2.5 cylinders and bouncy as hell

Either way man, it looks nice, keep going with it.

next time your in the Illinois area, let me know, I want to see what its like with a turbo now.

Nice car. Were those pictures taken at Miami University??

+1, run a good flex section. Or run stiff motor mounts so your engine movement is at a minimum.

Hey Garrett76zt, did the cast manifold clear the master cylinder and all?

BTW, how's the car comming along?