FINALLY!
I rented a truck, and went to Daytona, stuck in traffic for 4 hours, cuz of bike week..
BUT.. it was worth it, since i now own a ka24e engine (all accessories), transmission (rebuilt in 07), ecu, and motor mounts!

I got it for a steal $100.

Ok, now down to business, the actual swap..

Im going to take out my old ca engine, and clean out the engine bay during the weekend.

Then only things i need are:
Front drive shaft
Engine Wire harness.

I will post up pics while i go.

Here it goes, my crappy ca20e is being replaced with me ka24e, (eventually ka24eT)

Sorry for the long update.

so far, i
took out the old engine harness,
took out all the hoses, and lines.

and today i made the "custom" motor mounts. (hockey puck mod) lol.

Im picking up the cherry picker tomorrow, so i can pull the ca20e (crappy ass 2.0 engine) lol.

Will put pics up soon. wish me luck.

is this a build tread?

ya, i probably put this in the wrong section though. so if Arro or somebody can move it, i dont think i can.

yup u did lol

Ok, so after working about 7 straight hours, i finally got the ca20 engine out, without breaking anything!

Out with the old...


In with the new,


What 7 hours of work do...


Cool shot of the engine, (im sooo sorry about the ford in the back.. its my moms, and its probably the worst car i have ever drove. She needs to sell that crap)



Finally out =]



So all i need to do now, is
Clean the bay,
drop the new engine in, connect harness,

and yeah,

Im switching bellhousings from my ca, to ka, so i can still use my ca trans, till i get a new driveshaft.

how in the world do i take off the bell housing? i unscrewed everything from the bellhousing, but when i separate the bellhousing off of the trans, it gets stuck. I separate it about 2 inches, and its stuck, wtf?


Thanks!

you should have prolly took the engine and trans out together that way it would be easier to work on the trans to get the bellhousing off...

I guess. Idk, i just want to pop off the bellhousing, and swap it, so i can still use my b trans, with my ka bell housing.

but i cant get the housing, and the acctual trans, apart.

You're gonna want to pull the trans and do that outside of the car. No question about it.

I moved the thread to the Garage

Agreed.

Pull the trans. You'll thank us profusely later

So, because things happen... in the future, pull it engine and trans together. Gives you an opportunity to inspect things, and it's a lot less work than uncoupling the engine from the trans while in the car.

When you go to put it all back into the car, you DEFINITELY want to do it as ONE engine/trans assembly. That way all you have to do is set it onto the motor mounts, then bolt up the trans mount, and it's in.

Will do.
Today, i dont know if i will have engough time to take out the old tranny, because i got church. But i can still try

Ok, The only thing i had time for today, was to take off the ka bellhousing.

Finally did it, after a couple of hours of being stumped.

I see you are looking for an extra KA motor mount. Might I suggest the NISMO mount? Talk to Justin on here and get it for an unbelievably good price, far better than anyone else.

The NISMO mount is nice because it's stiffer than stock, but not so stiff that it rattles your teeth loose.

Its cool man, i already made hockey puck motor mounts.

My engine harness, is "supposed" to come tomorrow via ups., so the plan is to clean up the bay, and swap bellhousings tomorrow, and the day after, drop in the new engine, with the harness.

it should be running by thursday/friday.

Are you going to run track only? Do you mind removing your rear view mirror? The hockey pucks are violent and your rear view mirror will be all over the place. It's not really a good idea on anything other than a track car.

Its going to be both my track car, and a car just to get me to collage every morning.. but comfort is the last thing on my mind,

for me, its
Power,
reliability
and then, and/or comfort.

I dont mind it vibrating alot.

Motor mounts don't make power.

NISMO mounts are stiffer than you will ever need and will outlast the car. I have factory mounts (original ones from the S14 the engine came off of) and they're decent. So the NISMO ones are plenty.

Calling it "vibration" is an understatement. Even guys who run baller-style track cars shy away from them. They work, but like I said your rear view mirrors will be useless.

Anyways if you don't like it, you can always unbolt them, jack the engine up, and put in NISMO mounts. Don't need to pull the engine.

It doesent make power, but it restores power, from old soft mounts. Since the engine does not waste power from moving side to side under heavy acceleration.

and yeah, it only cost me $15, so if i dont like them, its not a big loss, i can just buy nismo mounts.. so mounts are not a problem.

Second part we agree on, the first part we don't. It doesn't make power to keep the engine from twisting. Unless you have some shot-to-hell stock mounts on a very-high horsepower engine, you're not gonna feel the difference. It will help in keeping your exhaust manifolds and downpipes from cracking, although if you're sticking with the cast manifold, you're probably going to be fine regardless. It's cheapo ebay headers that have the most problems with severe twist. But I would challenge anyone to see if they can visually spot twist with Nismo mounts

haha, true.

I probably just read some wrong info.

I read that instead of the engine wasting power to move around in the bay, the power goes strait to the trans.

Oh well. I probably just read some wrong info.

I went with hockey pucks cuz its so cheap. I already got the pucks when i read about the polly mounts, made with window weld.

Yeah I have four pucks floating around the garage somewhere, I was gonna do it until I found out from those who did that it's horrible vibration. I've had solid urethane mounts on a DSM and it wasn't unbearable, but supposedly the vulcanized rubber pucks are worse. Anyways the twist for power thing is more of a FWD concern, since it directly affects the positive rotation of the axles.

Ok, fwd makes more sense.

For wiring, i understand that i can still use my lower engine harness., does everything connect up to the upper harness from the ka? or do i need to cut and splice wires?

Also, the engine harness includes the connector to the ECU, correct? or would that be wired to the body harness?

Engine harness for the KA should include the special bolt-on connector for the ECU. And yep, you'll be cutting and splicing a few things, follow Sterling's wiring guide and you should be just fine. Others have done it strictly by his guide and with good results, most of the time if the ECU is good the engine fires the first try.

http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=21003

Also another wiring guide more aimed at the Mark II, but from what I understand Sterling's is the easiest:

http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11213

ok, im going to try to follow Sterlings wiring guide.
Its a little intimidating, but i didn't go this far to stop.

I just skimmed through sterlings guide, and it says ka24De alot. I asked on a thread befor, and the only differences in wiring from kade and kae, are colors, correct?

And btw, thanks a million for those links.

OHHHHH SINGLE camshaft, sorry:

Sterling's:
http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25320

Between that and the other two threads you should be set

Its cool man.
Thanks for the link, it will help me alot when i wire it all up.
Its a little intimidating, but i think i can pull through.

One more question,

I bought a engine harness off of a 90 ka24e, and the engine i have is a 89 ka24e.. i highly doubt it would be any different, but i just want to be sure.
The 89 and 90 engine harness are the same, right?

Should be the same. The chief differences were in KA-DE's, between OBD1, OBD1.5, and OBD2.

ok, Im dropping the tranny now, to swap the bellhousings

ok, the bellhousings are swapped, and the new tranny is attached to the engine, im going clean out the bay, and drop in the new tranny..

engine harness did not come yet..

Any tips on how to remove the old motor mounts?
when i took out the engine, i unbolted the mounts from the engine, now i need to unbolt the mounts from the subframe.. i cant get in there with a wrench, or even a ratchet.

hmm. any tips?

Ratchet with bendable head (Autozone has one that worked for me)
Or get a 17mm wrench, and bend it in half. I have one of those too

Hmm. bending a 17mm wrench sounds like a good idea.

I tried a bendable ratchet, but it does not bend in the right place, so i cant get it in place.

Got the motor mounts off this morning, but broke the wrachet in the process. oh well.

Anyway, the new motor mounts were installed, and the new engine was put in. I will post up pics in a couple hours

And the packege arrived just in time.

I installed my engine & tranny, now just to wire her up and ride her!

Here are some pics.

Whoo! Ka24e is in!


Side pic


"Custom" motor mounts

Valve cover on-


Ok, what in the world is this?

A very good question son, I've never seen that before.

No matter. put it in the glovebox and forget about it

I would, but its attached to the chassis harness, in the engine bay.

I heard a rumor, that some s12's have a rain sensor, is this true? could this be that sensor?

It would explain why I've never seen it before. If it's on the chassis harness just leave it be. or put it back. I'm interested in knowing too, so to those who have identified this, Do tell!

I never took it out of anywhere to put it back. lol

Its just on the chassis harness, hanging in the engine bay.
hmm.. i wonder what it could be.

yup, rain sensor for the automatic wipers

hm.. well my guess was right. but it does not work. lol.

Im so lost with the wiring, i dont even know where to start, even with all the guides.

I need a guide, that tells me what wire goes where. Just so the car can run.

Ok, so i tried to wire everything that i could..
Once i found one wire that i knew 100% where it went, they all just started lining up.

But some wires i have no clue where they went, or im not sure if i did it correctly.

1:
Did i connect this in the right place? it is just to the right of the injector, on the bottom.



2:
Do i just ground these out to the engine?



3:
maf? where does this go?



4:
lastly, a cluster of wires, that dont add up.

first is correct
second is also correct ju ground them to the engine
third im not shure on
fourth pic is of the ignition coil plugs

hmm.. this is the 2nd time u saved my ass lol.

thank you man

3rd is maf. it has that clip deal on it...

plugs into your maf, wherever you decide to put it.

thank you man.

that reminds me, i dont think i can use my old ca maf. can i?

No. KA MAF that (should have) come with your engine. Anyways the KA MAF is superior in design to the CA20 flap-style.

hm.

crap. i guess i wont be starting the ka till i get a new maf..

i gess i could start it, but it would idle really rough.

wasn't there a wire, that i needed to extend from behind the battery area, to where the old maf used to sit?

hey man put me on the good sellers lol

dont believe so, i didnt run an extension for the maf when i was single cam, or with my DE.. my 18det had to have a extension tho.